February 01, 2006
Travel writing: Tiger Tales
Client: Tiger Tales (produced for INK Publishing)10 Ways to Enjoy Padang
There is so much more to this beautiful part of West Sumatra other than diving, says Yu-Mei Balasingamchow.
Sixty minutes. That's all it takes to exit the busy, bustling Singapore and enter the magical world of Padang, Indonesia. The gateway to sumptuous mountains, sun, sea, sand and surf, discover the beautiful West Sumatran highlands (home to the proud indigenous Minangkabau people) to choice diving and surfing spots at the Bungus and Mentawai islands.
It's the perfect vacation spot for the romantic at heart who is looking for places that don't require half a day of flying, and yet are unspoilt by the crass commercialism that comes with becoming a "tourist attraction". Padang's charms are not yet well-known outside Indonesia, and foreign tourists are actually a rarity! So unusual, in fact, that our team's presence drew children and bystanders like a circus act. Whether you're looking for a restful three-day getaway or a week-long adrenaline overdose, Padang's the place! Here's a taste of the smorgasbord that awaits:
1 WANDER THROUGH PASAR RAYA, PADANG'S CENTRAL MARKET.
The way to get right to the heart of a place is to hit the markets. The best time to do this in Padang is mid-morning, just when things are starting to pick up. Anything you can imagine is sold here: fruits, vegetables, clothes, fabric, sunglasses, souvenirs --- you name it. Look out for local snacks that make great exotic gifts, like jengkol (chestnut), salak (snake-skin fruit) and keropok (our pick is the spicy tapioca cracker with chilli, spring onion and cumin). Be ready to jump out of the way when the snack carts come honking down the aisles.
The market ranges one and a half square kilometres, and it's a real rabbit's warren of stalls, so buy what you want when you see it or stay alert enough to retrace your steps. And always bargain!
2 STAY AT HOTEL BATANG ARAU.
Soak in the soul of Padang at this quaint boutique hotel on the River Arau near the old harbour of Muara. Although the architectural features of this 1908 building have been preserved, modern additions like dark wood and rattan furniture, contemporary light fixtures and exquisite stained glass windows enhance its charm.
At night, the cool, quiet restaurant is transformed by mood lighting and modern beats, making it a romantic nook for dinner and drinks. With only four suites available, this place doesn't feel crowded even when it's fully booked.
3 ENJOY A NASI PADANG MEAL.
Singaporeans think they invented this, but Padang is really where this popular rice-and-a-thousand-ingredients dish came from, hence the name. There are nasi padang stalls and restaurants on almost every street corner, displaying stacked-up dishes with food fresh from the kitchen. There's no menu and no need to place an order. The waiters will bring you a little of everything, about 15-20 (often spicy) dishes in all; you just pay for what you've eaten at the end of the meal. Delicious yet efficient and economical!
The variety of food runs from familiar favourites like chicken curry and beef rendang to more adventurous options like gulai hati (cow's heart in curry) or gulai usus (cow's intestines in curry). To enhance your dining pleasure, eat like the locals by using your hands. Yum!
4 DIVE AROUND THE BUNGUS ISLANDS
and sink into a world of incredible colour. With reefs visible up to four metres deep, divers and snorkellers can get a good glimpse of the underwater world. Look out for sharks, dolphins, manta rays and barracudas though --- we even saw a shellfish that was one metre long!
Wall diving (where divers move along the "wall" between shallow and deep waters to observe a flurry of rich sea life) is common. Visibility can go underwater 20 metres on a clear day. Boats leave from the old harbour of Muara or from Bungus Bay.
5 CATCH A LIVE MUSIC PERFORMANCE IN PADANG.
Every Saturday at 7pm, enjoy musical twang at the open space in front of the Tourism Centre at Muara. The show line-up varies from traditional Minangkabau music to modern rock. Before the performance, join locals at the beach across the road to watch the sunset, and grab a bite at the many stalls there.
6 TREK UP AN ACTIVE VOLCANO, GUNUNG MERAPI...
And live to tell the tale! The full ascent up the volcano begins around 11pm (yes, at night!), with a local guide to show you the way, and takes about eight hours. Of course, an easier option is to take a four-wheel drive vehicle up to about 1,650 metres above sea level. From there, you can make the three-to-four hour climb. Either way, you'll reach the summit just in time for the sunrise, which makes it all worthwhile. And try not to get too giddy on the sulphurous volcanic fumes!
7 EXPLORE THE INDIGENOUS MINANGKABAU CULTURE.
In the highland town of Bukittinggi, catch a cultural performance that features traditional music, dance and even pencak silat (martial arts). Try the Sakato Group, which specialises in pencak silat executed barefoot on broken plates. To see traditional crafts, pop into Koto Gadang village to see the silversmiths and Pandai Sikek village for the weavers and woodcarvers. Pick up intricately designed table runners or fashion items (RP200,000 or SGD35 and above for filigree jewellery or a full sarong kebaya).
8 WATCH A BUFFALO FIGHT.
There are typically two rounds in a buffalo fight, with different pairs of buffalos facing off against each other and locking horns. Fights can last up to several hours if neither buffalo wants to back down. The winner is the buffalo that doesn't run off.
Extremely popular with the locals, fights are hosted by different villages every Tuesday and Saturday, except during general elections and between the Muslim holidays of Idul Fitri (Hari Raya Puasa) and Aidiladha (Haji). Apparently, sometimes the local shaman gets involved, and it turns into a tussle to see who's got better magic!
9 LIVE LIKE A MINANGKABAU.
Spend a night or two with a family in their home, observe their daily routine, eat dinner with them, and maybe even pick up a cooking lesson or two. Don't worry, there’ll be a guide to translate and make sure they don't cook you up for breakfast.
The real treat is observing any intriguing rituals they may exercise --- and none of it is pre-planned. The more adventurous visitor can also indulge in other Minangkabau activities in the area, like trekking and bamboo rafting, which can be arranged. These homestays are conducted in the Bukittinggi and Payakumbuh areas, and were pioneered by Shaan Travel Agency in Bukittinggi (tel: +62 (752) 32530, email: info@shaanholidays.com).
10 CATCH THE SURF AT THE ISLAND OF SIBERUT
Mentawai island chain, often touted as the best surf spot in Indonesia and third best in the world. The island attracts surfers from all over the world and has played host to world surfing championships.
Waves reach up to 20 feet during peak season (May to July), and even non-surfers are charmed by the island's pristine waters and unspoiled beaches. Surf trips usually depart from Padang, and yes, beginners are welcome too!
Written by Yu-Mei Balasingamchow