February 01, 2007
Travel writing: Tiger Tales

Client: Tiger Tales (produced by INK Publishing)
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Padang Destination Guide
FUN FACT
The West Sumatran highlands are home to the Rafflesia, the largest flower inthe world. It is also one of the most pungent-smelling. No wonder the Minangkabau people call it "the flower that smells of dead animals"!
MUST SEE
Pagaruyung Palace
In the 14th century, the Minangkabau ruled this part of Sumatra, which was the heart of their kingdom. Although the original palace burned down in 1806 (in what some claim was an act of political intrigue!), this replica was built on the same spot and captures the intricacies of Minangkabau architecture. Located just outside the town of Batu Sangkar, this elegant rumah gadang (big house) is home to a collection of Minangkabau artefacts and costumes.
Bukittinggi Buffalo Fight
No toreadors here, but the buffalos and the audiences are feisty enough! Rub shoulders with the locals at these lively fights, where different buffalos go up against each other. Fights can last several hours if both buffalos don't back down. Ultimately, it is the buffalo that doesn't turn tail and run away who wins. Check out which village is hosting the weekly fights, held every Tuesday and Saturday except during general elections and between the Muslim holidays of Idul Fitri and Aidiladha.
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
Pasar Raya
This is the central market in Padang and a colourful labyrinth of stalls. Locals come here for the fresh food and household items, but there is definitely plenty for travellers to see and touch too. Sample a local snack or fruit, or pick up souvenirs and trinkets. Just remember to always bargain!
Ramayana Shopping Centre (Jalan Pemuda)
The newest shopping centre in Padang is also a great place to escape the heat and see what the locals are buying. Besides the Ramayana department store, there’s also a range of local fashion stores and fast-food restaurants.
Satu Karia
The women of Pandai Sikek in the Bukittinggi highlands are renowned for their weaving skills. This shop carries beautifully woven products, all made in the workshop in the building. Pick up traditional and modern Indonesian outfits, as well as lace household linens, handbags, shoes and souvenir trinkets.
BEST BITES
Simpang Raya (Jalan Bundo Kanduang 3-5, tel: +62 (751) 27300)
No prizes for guessing that nasi padang originated right here in Padang. There are nasi padang restaurants on every street corner. A good one to try is Simpang Raya, conveniently located near the Matahari Shopping Centre. As in all nasi padang restaurants, you don't have to order. The staff will bring about 15 to 20 small and often spicy dishes, and you only pay for what you eat. A meal costs RP20,000-30,000 (SGD3.45-5.20) per person.
Bedudal Cafe (A Yani street 95/105, tel: +62 (752) 31533)
Bukittinggi is popular with backpackers. Meet fellow travellers and pick up travel tips while relaxing over a cold smoothie or beer. Sttaff are friendly and meal portions are generous. The full menu includes inexpensive Western and Indonesian fare, all for about RP20,000 (SGD3.45) per dish.
Lubuk Idai (Jalan Raya Bypass, tel: +62 (752) 626055)
This Bukittinggi restaurant specialises in grilled fish and chicken, popular with locals and visitors alike. The spicy specialities are served with nasi putih (white rice) and vegetable nasi padang dishes. A meal costs RP20,000-30,000 (SGD3.45-5.20) per person.
BY NIGHT
Live music in Padang
The Tourism Centre organises live musical performances every Saturday from 7pm. Catch local singing acts --- ranging from traditional Minangkabau music to modern rock --- at the open space in front of the Tourism Centre at Muara. It's just a stone's throw from the ocean, and there are plenty of food stalls on the beach where you can grab a bite to eat.
SLEEPOVER
Novotel Coralia Bukittinggi (Jalan Laras Datuk Bandaro)
This landmark hotel in the heart of Bukittinggi offers unbeatable views of the surrounding highlands, even from the lower floors. The architecture is influenced by both Minangkabau and Moorish styles, and features a naturally ventilated lobby where the ceiling reaches four storeys high. Popular with families, room rates start from RP970,000 (SGD167).
Royal Denai Hotel (Jalan Dr A Rivai 26)
Recently upgraded, this pleasant three-star hotel in Bukittinggi offers tastefully appointed rooms and suites. It is conveniently located beside Fort de Kock and the zoo, and near the centre of town. Room rates start at RP370,000 (SGD64); suites start at RP825,000 (SGD143).
Hotel Inna Muara (Jalan Gereja 34)
This two-star hotel in the heart of Padang is just a short walk from the beach and Pasar Raya, the central market. The hotel was recently renovated and has 51 comfortable rooms. Room rates start at about RP710,000 (SGD122).
Written by Yu-Mei Balasingamchow
Previous Destination Guides: Aug 2006, May 2006, Feb 2006